Showing posts with label building. Show all posts
Showing posts with label building. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Hard Core Walls

Nuform© walls/forms during installation.
Note the internal webbing showing on each
side of the door.

On my most recent deployment to Afghanistan I had the opportunity to observe the construction of a concrete building using the Nuform© system. Nuform© uses a vinyl form that is set in place, filled with concrete, and then left to become both interior and exterior surfaces. The first time I ran into this system is when I read Christopher Alexander's A Pattern Language: Towns, Buildings, and Construction.

Alexander tackled the idea of concrete pored into stay-in-place forms in pattern number "218 Wall Membrane." (Alexander divided his chapters into "patterns" each pattern contained an idea, proofs for the idea, and conected patterns on both a larger and smaller scale.) His version used site constructed forms that would resemble conventional concrete forming, but with a material that would be suitable to leaving in place. Alexander recommended materials such as plywood, brick, and gypsum board as form/wall material. All of which I see as seriously flawed in this usage.

A soldier sliding a Nuform© section to extend a wall.

Additionally, Alexander advocated using chicken wire instead of rebar and lightweight concrete with wider walls to make up for the lower strength of the lighter concrete. In the Nuform© system it uses normal concrete on the runny side, rebar, and the vinyl of the forms creates an internal webbing that improves the bulging issues that are a construction nightmare on any concrete project.

I'm not saying that any of these points makes Nuform© a system I like. The 6 inch walls are just too narrow to get the concrete to settle. Even with the runniest concrete specifications allowed and dedicated beaters hitting the walls to shake the concrete down, empty spots were left in the forms when the concrete was cured. The echo in this building was the worst I have encountered in any construction project I have observed, the vinyl provided no noticeable sound dampening.

In either method, making the walls straight and avoiding bulges is difficult. The use of so much embedded energy with the concrete is also a concern, as is the potential for chemical burns on the workers skin from wet concrete being poured overhead. Especially low grade concrete from a developing nation. 

I wonder if the concept of a stay-in-place form would be better applied to a rammed earth building or even cob (although I can't see how a form could improve cob.) With both of these earth construction systems I would use even thicker walls than Alexander recommended. A form material would have to be found to work with the earthen materials, vinyl has a high energy footprint, just like the concrete. 

Any vertical use of concrete requires heavy support and
bracing until the concrete is set. The weight of the concrete
is enough to throw the whole project into a jumbled mess
without the extra help.

I'm not sure I will ever find solutions to the problems I am seeing, but by looking at them I become a better designer and a better problem solver. And if we are ever going to make the world a better place those are two things that all of us need.

Saturday, February 11, 2012

Sustainable Carpentry



I found a recent listing for an army carpenter's kit. Please note, although I recently found the listing, I also found a recent listing. With that said, I tracked down a kit that was newly issued as of 2011. With all the new electric motorized gadgets that most people work with these days, it is refreshing to know that at least the army has the sense to know that the power is not always on.

With the list still fresh on my mind I went to the local big box store to see what they carried. Although my tour was not complete for all the parts on the list, I did not find much. Files and screwdrivers were abundant. But of the other tools that were common only twenty or thirty years I could only readily find were an all-purpose-saw (no cross cut or rips saws), key hole saws, and a small sized plane.

The salesman for the tool department thought I was odd for being interested in had tools and continual recommended that the only manual tool I should be interested in is a trigger. 

Fortunately, I ran into Roger and his son-in-law Ron. Both of them are highly skilled hobbyists with an interest in good skills and good tools. Their suggestion was to find good old tools from antiques shops, on line, or preferably, from garage sales. While there  is some risk in buying old tools, the quality of the tools makes them well worth the time restoring them. 

They also recommended one web sight for good quality new tools: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/index.aspx. The prices are high compared to the big box, but if you are serious about carpentry and woodwork, the price is worth it for tools you won't have to replace.

Ron also has a woodworking blog that is well worth looking at: http://ronswoodshop.blogspot.com/. He goes into all aspects of woodworking as well as the tools used. I enjoyed his blog more than any others I have found recently.

Have a good a time finding more sustainable skills. And don't forget, there are more people out there that think like you. You just have to find them.

P.S. The list for the tool kit is below.




Carpenter's Kit
Item Description National Stock Number
Pinch Bar 26 in 5120-00-224-1372
Wrecking Bar 30 in 5120-00-293-0665
Wrecking Bar 12 in 5120-00-223-7218
Sliding T Bevel 8 in 5210-00-278-0645
Auger Bit Set 5133-00-293-2396
Bit Expansive7/8 in-- 3 in 5133-00-223-4987
Phillips Screwdriver Bit  5120-00-250-5576
5120-00-595-8197
5120-00-223-6971
Rachet Brace 5110-00-293-1958
Twist Drill Case (bits) 5140-00-837-5313
Countersink 5/8 in 5133-00-224-9096
Glass Cutter 5110-00-222-4401
Mechanic's Dividers 5210-00-263-0376
Hand Drill 5110-00-293-3411
Glazier's Driver 5120-00-596-9552
Hammer Face Insert 5120-00-293-2997
Hand File Flat 8 in 5110-00-203-4935
Hand File Slim Taper 6 in 5110-00-234-6528
Hand File Auger Bit Type 7 in 5110-00-251-9000
Hand File Taper 6 in 5110-00-234-6522
Hand Saw Filing Guide 5110-00-860-3377
Safety Goggles 4240-00-052-3776
Engineer's Cross-Peen Hammer 5120-00-900-6103
Carpenter's Hammer 16 oz 5120-01-112-8346
Carpenter's Ripping Hammer 20 oz 5120-01-112-8345
File Handle 5110-00-595-8325
Hatchet 1-3/8 lb 5110-00-228-3161
Hammer Face Holder 5120-00-903-8553
Craftsman's Knife 2-1/2 in 5110-00-240-7070
Pocket Knife  5110-00-240-5943
Aluminum Level 24 in 5210-00-239-0892
Hand Oiler 6 oz 4930-00-985-2604
Pencil 7510-00-275-7213
Jack Plane 2 in x 14 in 5110-00-224-7911
Pliers w/Cutter 8 in 5120-00-239-8251
Brass Plumb Bob 5210-00-224-8794
Glazier Point 5340-00-538-6791
Saw Set Anvil 5120-00-244-1167
Crosscut Hand Saw 26 in 5110-00-293-3435
Rip Saw 5110-00-142-5015
3 Blade Nested Keyhole Saw 5110-00-501-6014
Phillips Screwdriver Size 2 5120-00-764-8067
Phillips Screwdriver Size 3 5120-00-234-8912
Phillips Screwdriver Size 1 5120-00-240-8716
Screwdriver Flat 6 in 5120-00-234-8910
Screwdriver Flat 8 in 5120-00-237-6985
Screwdriver Flat 3 in 5120-00-236-2127
Screwdriver Flat 4 in 5120-00-222-8852
Carpenter's Square 5210-00-273-1948
Combination Square 5210-00-241-3599
Steel Staples 5315-00-132-8302
Sharpening Stone Couse-Fine Grit 5345-00-260-0759
Staple Tacker 5120-00-388-6821
Tape Measure 100 ft 5210-00-527-9429
Tape Measure 25 ft 5210-01-139-7444
Portable Tool Box 42 in x19 in x19 in 5140-01-237-3233
Waxed Nylon Twine 4020-00-954-1118

Thursday, December 29, 2011

The Daddy Bed

The Daddy bed. Almost all finished.
Every child deserves a daddy bed. When children are young they get held by their parents most of the time. As they get older they get hugs as they scrape their knees, have conflicts, and any time they just need them. A little older and things change. 

For a teenager, what used to be the perfect time for a hug just a year or two earlier becomes an unforgivable trespass with little or no warning to the parent.


A few holes in the wrong spots.
A few fixes.











The solution is to hide the hugs as something else. In my case I have hugs hidden into the custom bed I designed and made for my daughter.


The bed is out of building stock Douglass fir. The posts are 4x4s. The rails for the head and foot boards, as well as the mattress rails are 2x6s. Inside the mattress rails are supports for a mattress board, they are made out of 2x3s. The mattress board is a 3/4 inch particle board cut to size.

Those Headlok screws are
not lined up!


According to a friend of mine, I over-engineered my hardware. Each side of each mattress rail has two 3/8x6" lag screws holding it to the 4x4. The same hardware could have been used for the other rails. I chose to use six inch Headlok screws with finished heads instead, so I could cut down on my finishing hassle. 


The Headlok system claims to be stronger that 3/8" lag screws, so I could have used them for everything, but I feel safer with more metal. The Headloks usually don't need to be pre-drilled, but when you are going through 3 1/2" of Doug fir they tend to wander, so pre-drilling is recommended. 


I wanted a simple finish so I opted for fruit colored Danish oil. It was easy to apply and looks good. It is a little thinner than I expected, so I might have to refinish in a few years. 

The headboard.
The footboard.

I planned on leaving the bed a little rough from the outset so I did not mercilessly sand to perfection. Ink lumber markings are still visible, as are a few measuring lines. I even have a bunch of extra holes from planning the lags and Headloks into the same space. They are not ugly and help tell the story of the difficulties I had in making the bed.

And I did have difficulties. None of the lumber is perfect. Every piece is cracked or warped. And I found out I cannot drill straight. It just isn't an option.


I am happy with the bed though. It is not perfect, but it looks good and is strong. 

Most importantly it was made with love and was received with love.